In the winter, Britain’s Royal family flock to Klosters while nearby Davos plays host to the world leaders at the Economic Forum. Intrigued, Travel Editor ANNE GORRINGE follows in their footsteps to discover the delights of this eastern area of the Swiss Alp before the ski season starts….
It’s where Wills and Kate were pictured in their first public kiss in the early days of their romance! Yes, Klosters has long been a top holiday destination for royals and a whole host of celebrities.
It’s easy to see why. It’s an incredibly beautiful ‘chocolate box’ Swiss resort. Pretty window boxes bloom and summer hikers admire them as they meander through the streets on their way to another stunning mountain trail.
The Chesa Grischun, a pretty Klosters hotel is typical of the beautiful buildings in the town with window boxes full of flowers. It’s also famous as the place big Hollywood stars, like Gene Kelly, loved to stay in…
It’s the top choice too for mountain-bikers, tennis and golf fans, attracted by the facilities and the great transport links to other parts of Switzerland via the ever-efficient Swiss train service.
Residents here are used to playing host to a variety of sports fans, AND celebrities. Earlier this year Katie Price caused havoc in Klosters when she turned up at a polo competition to promote her new equestrian range.
And, just a short, 26 minute train journey down the line at nearby Davos, big names such as Bill Gates are regulars at the annual World Economic Forum held in its famous Conference Centre each January.
With a permanent population of over 11,000 people, Davos is the largest settlement in the whole of the Graubünden region in this Eastern area of Switzerland. At a height of 1,560 metres, it’s also the highest city in Europe, making it a great place to ski.
Even in summer it’s not unusual for the tops of the distant mountains here to be covered in a dusting of white which glistens in the sunlight and adds to the prettiness of the valley.
Cable cars run all year round too and, one of the benefits of staying in a hotel here is the free ‘resort’ card on offer, giving free travel on local transport – including trips up the mountain!
Ours, the Morosani Posthotel, was just a few hundred metres from both the main city centre train station and the entrance to the Jakobshorn ‘gondola’ ride.
Step inside and you can enjoy breath-taking Alpine views over Davos and the pretty golf course below before arriving in the middle of the Alpine countryside. Coming out of the exit, I made for a leafy forest track which leaf up to the top of the mountain and the tiny cheese-making factory of Clavadeler Alps.
Here I watched the staff in action before sampling a plateful of cheese in their cafe before walking off the calories by following another trail down the mountain.
From Davos, a cable car ride (free with your hotel ‘card’) takes you to the starting point for a beautiful 45-minute walk to a picturesque cheese-making factory, open each summer, for just 3 months…
Back in Davos, I set off on another trip on local transport to the picturesque local village of Monstein. It’s a two-bus ride – but it was all very easy. Connections worked a treat and the scenery was stunning plus, at the end of it you find the highest brewery in Europe! Heaven.
One of the pretty, traditional homes in the quaint village of Monstein, home to the highest brewery in Europe.
It was Friday night and that meant there was another chance to sample more beer back in Davos at the famous Postli club. In summer, this opens on only one night a week and it’s there that you can dance to the beat of Euro-tunes and star spot! During the Economic Forum I’m told that ONLY named guests (and, famous ones, at that!) stand a chance of getting through the doors.
Off season, it’s open to all, so I couldn’t resist. Fortunately, it was just at the back of my hotel so, when I gave up on the dancing at 2am it was just a short walk home…
Just as well. I had to be up at 8.30 am to pack, breakfast and catch the 10.02 train for the 26-minute ride to Klosters, and the second hotel of my trip.
It’s a pretty ride and, as expected, we pulled into Klosters at 10.28am exactly on Saturday morning. The town is small and compact enough to explore on foot. Once my bag was safely dropped off at the Hotel Silvretta, I took a five minute stroll along the side of a bubbling, green, alpine river to the local sports hall.
It’s there that, each summer, teenagers from a host of nations gather for the European Junior Tennis Championships – and I was lucky enough to be in town of the last weekend of the competition.
Tennis fans…
Take my tip, Spain’s 18-year–old Roberto Carballes – the first player in 10 years to scoop both the singles and doubles titles – is a name to watch.
I chanced on his match as I shuffled past his court looking for the cafe and a hot coffee, saw him in action, and was mesmerised. His Ukranian opponent played a powerful and technically impressive game but lacked the excitement and passion of Carballes.
He certainly kept me entertained and, best yet, the entrance fee was an absolute bargain. My weekend ticket, which let me dip in to see any game I wanted over two days, cost 30 Swiss Francs (just over £23). At a time when the Swiss Franc is strong, this is cheap entertainment.
My lunchtime treat was to head off to the fascinating Hotel Chesa Grischuna for lunch. In the ski season you’ll have to book well in advance but a summer or autumn visit makes it much easier to get a table.
The hotel made its name in the Second World War when it put up American troups who were internees in Switzerland. After the war, they spread the word about the wonderful little hotel in the mountains and returned with their families.
The film stars followed and the Swiss hotel mountain ‘retreat’ was soon dubbed ‘Hollywood on the Rocks’.
It’s here that Gene Kelly once danced on the piano film star Deborah Kerr of From Here to Eternity fame married the author Peter Viertel. War photographer Robert Capa stayed too and Greta Garbo was a regular guest.
With a history like that, and only 12 individual and unique rooms in the hotel, prices to stay aren’t cheap. But with an average main course at Chesa Grischuna, costing around 25 – 35 Swiss Francs (£18.75-£26.45) means lunch is do-able. My traditional potato Rosti was delicious!
I didn’t spot any celebrities but…at my hotel round the corner, the so my hotel was round the corner, I discovered it was still possible to mingle with the stars.
Walking into reception I bumped into the Slovakian female junior tennis champion, carrying her rackets! Spain’s Robero Carballes was nowhere to be seen but, hey, you can’t have everything…
Roberto Carballes in action in Klosters. If you’re a tennis fan who’s tried (& failed) to get tickets for next year’s Olympics in London, my top tip would be to go to klosters and enjoy the stunning tennis on offer there.
Tickets for the European Junior Championships can be bought on the day at the cashiers desk at the entrance to Klosters Sports Centre. An afternoon pass is a bargain10 Swiss Francs (around £7.70) Weekend passes for 30 Swiss Francs. Next year’s European Junior Championship is from 23-29th July 2012, just before the Olympic Games in London start. Website: www.tennisklosters.ch
Facts – Switzerland
Getting there:-
Anne travelled with SWISS International Airlines to Zurich then by train from the airport station to Davos and Klosters. For more information on Davos visit www.davos.ch for further information on the region visit www.graubunden.com or for information on Switzerland visit www.MySwitzerland.com
- Swiss International Airlines operates daily flights from London Heathrow and Birmingham to Zurich. Fares from £115 return, including all airport taxes (or from £79 return to Geneva or Basle) For reservations call 0845 601 0956 or visit: www.swiss.com
- Train tickets: The Swiss Travel System provides special travel passes and tickets exclusively for visitors from abroad. One, the Swiss ‘Flexi Pass’ covers a round-trip between the airport and your destination plus travel between destinations in Switzerland. A second class Swiss ‘Flexi Pass’ costs just £79 and can be used on journeys over 4 separate days within a one-month period. Children travel FREE with an adult. Call the Switzerland Travel Centre on freephone 00800 100 200 30 or visit www.swisstravelsystem.co.uk
Hotels
- Morosani Posthotel, Davos Prices from 600 Swiss Francs (£462) for a four-night break through until November, inclusive of breakfast and gourmet dinner and free use of the Spa facilities. Also includes Hotel card, giving free public transport in the area. www.morosani.ch
- Anne also stayed for one night at the Silvreta Park Hotel, Klosters. For autumn offers, check out www.silvretta.ch
- For information on the Chesa Grinschuna see www.chesagrischuna.ch
